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How is ghee made?

GheeClear

How is ghee made?
Butter in a kadhai sticks at 100 °C until its hidden water has boiled away. Then the crackling stops, the temperature runs, and in a minute or two the milk solids go from golden to burnt. Heat the makhan yourself, catch the moment, and see why ghee keeps for months and takes a tadka that butter cannot.

▶ Play with it  ·  Read the 60-second explainer  ·  Watch the 40-second video

Glassbox No. 115 Chemistry Code: MIT Content: CC BY 4.0 Privacy: explained

In 60 seconds

  1. Butter is three things. Butter is about 80% milk fat with 16 to 20% water locked inside it as billions of tiny droplets, and 1 to 2% milk solids (protein, lactose, minerals) dissolved in those droplets. Ghee is what is left when the water is boiled away and the solids are toasted and strained out.
  2. The thermometer sticks at 100 °C. On the flame the makhan melts, warms to 100 °C and stops there. Turning water into steam takes 2,257 joules per gram, so until the water has gone the heat makes steam, froth and a loud crackle instead of a higher temperature. When the crackling stops, the fat turns clear and the temperature climbs fast.
  3. The smell is made in the last minutes. At about 110 to 120 °C the dry milk solids brown by the Maillard reaction: milk sugar joins milk protein and makes brown pigments and nutty, caramel aromas, while heat frees creamy lactones from the fat. Stop there and you have ghee. Stop earlier and it is plain clarified butter. Go on and it burns.
  4. Why it keeps and takes the heat. Microbes need water, and ghee has at most 0.5%. With no protein or sugar either, it keeps for months on a shelf; what spoils it is slow oxidation, so store it airtight, dark and dry. With no milk solids to scorch, its smoke point is about 250 °C against about 150 °C for butter.
  5. Grain and colour. Milk fat melts between about 28 and 44 °C. Cooled slowly near 29 °C, a few fat crystals grow into big soft grains: danedar ghee. Cooled fast, it sets smooth and waxy. Cow ghee is yellow from β-carotene; buffalo ghee is white and makes larger grains.
  6. Pure or not. Home ghee goes milk, dahi, makhan, ghee; dairies start from cream or creamery butter. All finish at 110 to 120 °C. FSSAI defines ghee as pure milk fat with no added colour, and labs catch vanaspati and vegetable oil by the RM value, the refractometer reading, the Baudouin colour test and plant sterols.

Words worth knowing

Term Meaning
Ghee Milk fat from which the water has been boiled off and the browned milk solids strained out. Indian law allows it at most 0.5% moisture.
Water-in-fat emulsion Tiny water droplets spread through fat. Butter is one; cream and milk are the reverse, fat droplets in water.
Milk solids The protein, lactose and minerals of milk. In butter they sit in the water droplets, and they are what browns in the kadhai.
Latent heat Heat that changes a substance's state without raising its temperature. Boiling water takes 2,257 kJ per kilogram, which holds butter at 100 °C until it is dry.
Maillard reaction The reaction between sugars and the amino groups of proteins that makes brown colour and roasted aromas. It gives ghee its nutty smell.
Smoke point The temperature at which a fat starts to break down and smoke: about 250 °C for ghee and about 150 °C for butter (typical values).
Rancidity The off smell of fat that has been oxidised by air and light, or split by water. It is how ghee spoils.
Danedar Grainy: the texture of ghee cooled slowly, in which large soft fat crystals sit in liquid fat.
RM value and BR reading Two lab numbers that separate milk fat from other fats: its short volatile fatty acids (RM, at least 28) and how it bends light (BR, 40 to 43).

A short history

4,500 years from clay pots in Gujarat to a lab test for every tin.

  • 2500 BCE · Dairy fat in Indus Valley pots (Farmers of Kotada Bhadli, Kotada Bhadli, Gujarat)
  • 1200 BCE · Ghrita in the Rigveda (Composers of the Rigveda, North-western India)
  • 50 · Ghee crosses the Arabian Sea (The unknown author of the Periplus of the Erythraean Sea, Barygaza (Bharuch), Gujarat)
  • 1879 · A number that only butterfat reaches (Emil Reichert and Emerich Meissl, Austria-Hungary)
  • 1902 · Liquid oil becomes solid fat (Paul Sabatier; Wilhelm Normann, Toulouse and Herford)
  • 1912 · Maillard describes the browning reaction (Louis-Camille Maillard, Paris)
  • 1937 · Dalda: vanaspati gets a brand (Hindustan Vanaspati Manufacturing Company (Lever Brothers), Mumbai)
  • 1938 · Agmark grades for ghee (Government of India, under the Agricultural Produce (Grading and Marking) Act, 1937, New Delhi)

The full story, with 27 moments, charts, people and 30 sources: glassbox.how/e/gheeclear/history. The data lives in history.json.

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